It has been a year now since I last traveled to Nicaragua. I miss it. Some might wonder what there is to miss in a land of extreme poverty and, now, civil turmoil. A couple people have even suggested to me that I must be glad not to be going to Nicaragua anymore, given all of the unrest, and observed that I picked a good time to retire from such travels. In all due respect, they are wrong.
I miss the interactions with Mark and Ligia and Rene and his team. I miss Bismarck and Edmundo and Corina, and all of the cooperative members with whom we have worked; they likely never knew it, but they are among my heroes. I’ve stayed in many hotel rooms over the past year, but none of them entice me back for a return the way that Hotel Chepita in El Cua does. Sometimes I even miss beans and rice for breakfast.
It’s easy for me to feel melancholy about what has transpired in Nicaragua over the past year; there are plenty of reasons to feel so. But I’m certainly not the one paying the price. Nor is it the well-connected in Nicaragua, who have plenty of safety nets in place. As always, it’s the most marginalized part of the population that is taking the biggest hit from the current conflict. The standoff began as students and older citizens confronted the government, but the biggest losers are the rural peasants, Some have been killed. Others have been “disappeared.” Most have lived in fear of rogue gangs roaming the countryside, who operate based upon whim. At the lowest end of the economic and social totem pole, they are experiencing a deeper and accelerated decline as the rest of the world pulls back from the uncertainty that is Nicaragua today. Jorge has not been able to resume his studies at the University of Central America (UCA). But what about Yareli?
Yareli is the little girl whom I encountered outside of the Roberto Clemente School in Ciudad Sandino some years ago. (I wrote about her here on May 5, 2012.) Her face virtually lit up the space around her, and her gesture of greeting and blessing is as priceless to me today as it was seven years ago. I can’t help but wonder where she is today, whether she is safe and well, how the turmoil of the past year has affected her beautiful smile. I try to imagine her family and what their experience has been throughout this period.
As is true in most things political, the little guy loses the most. It’s an ironic truth that when the rich and powerful maneuver for more wealth or more power, the people who have none are the ones who ultimately pay. The actions of the elites may be clouded in words of patronage and concern, but too often they are hollow.
And it’s true no matter what the civil milieu: big, wealthy countries like the U.S., and small, impoverished ones like Nicaragua. (The recent U.S. “tax cuts,” touted consistently by the person in the White House, were not tax cuts for most. Despite words of praise about looking out for middle America {praise mostly from himself}, the extra pay in weekly pay envelopes was more than neutralized by the losses in tax refunds for many. The winners? The ultra wealthy.)
It is estimated by economists that more than 215,000 jobs have been lost in Nicaragua over the past 12 months. These were not CEOs or senior government officials or bank presidents. Job losses almost always accrue to the lowest level of employment and impact the people least likely to withstand loss of income, like peasant farmers who cannot secure markets during a downturn.
And what about Char-les? Mark and I met him last year, during my last visit to Nicaragua. I wrote about him here on April 21, 2018.) This was one inquisitive young man, whose curiosity about geography and the world were infectious. He talked imaginatively about visiting Mexico and the U.S. and seeing whales. A little boy with enormous visions is a beautiful thing to behold. I hope Char-les is OK. I wonder if he is safe and still dreaming about fulfilling dreams and finding answers. I hope that his single mother is not one of the 215,000 people who lost her job.
In some ways the tragedy in Nicaragua is just one more example of injustice in the lap of the poor. It happens everywhere. But it’s made more real to me because of Yareli and Char-les.
The events of the past year in Nicaragua are tragic. They are made still worse by the imprint made upon the lives of small angels….